Where to Start DIY Costume

Planning is the first and most integral step to doing a unique first costume. And surprisingly enough, one of the most important aspects of planning is keeping the process dynamic, for a couple of reasons. Having a generalized plan to start with shouldn't contain too many details until you get further into your planning process. Part of the planning process involves both having an idea of how you'll accomplish each part of the costume creation, but also being open to changing the material and execution depending on changing circumstances. As a result, proper planning includes initial and refined research, contingencies, trial and error, and the possibility of "nailing it".

I personally like to get hands on pretty quick once I have something executable in mind... this is not always the best course of action, and often times I find myself in need of what I've heard referred to as "tactical patience". This "patience" resulting from inaction on acount of indecision and frustration, or what seems to be procrastination, is a result of not spending enough time ahead of time brainstorming and note-taking prior to diving in. I weasle my way out of most of these situations by "accidentally" procrastinating until whoever I'm working with happens to drop a line about changing or specifying something new that happens to coincide with where I left off at, so I'm able to make changes to the end product without having to undo anything. But, I would prefer to have had the ability to call attention to the question of this potential change earlier on, because sometimes time is money and time is time, and people need stuff on time.

So, when doing initial planning and research, it's important to try and find alternatives and imbelishments to use as contingencies when the project doesn't go as planned. It really is a benefit to have two or more ways to accomplish the same thing or have a viable alternative end state. If the abstraction in this context is confusing, I'll elaborate with an example:

Closures. Buttons, Button Holes, Shanks, Grommets, Laces, Eyelets, Loops. For me closure methods are the most daunting because there are so many types and styles, and for any one it can change how and when they are added, and sometimes changes the type of function and period accuracy of the garment. I'm still sitting on a design project I started 6 months ago because I didn't really plan on how I wanted to close and cinch the overdress in the first place, and some of my best choices would require me to amend the finished body of the garment. ARG!!! So, now I'm toying with which one or combination of closures and cinching methods to use to get the best look and function without having to trial and error. I would have been better served had I thought about and planned which closure and technique to use, and have a back up in case what I chose didn't look or function right - something on hand and at the ready to try.

Set a Budget: As hard as it is, unless it's possible to pay out whatever it takes in the creation of a costume, creating a budget is wise and also can end up providing a constraint that requires a level of creativity to surmount. Creativity here can facilitate a uniqueness to your costume that no one else has.

To start, then, make a very broad outline of end tasks like: Shirt, Armor, Pants, Boots, Hat... or whathaveyou. For each garment, conduct research for existing patterns or looks, and state the intended execution: Brand Pattern ####, using X fabric from Y outlet, with Z changes OR create pattern from old clothes, using suggested fabric from A location, with the note: pattern changes or makes will be done using heavy-weight interfacing or butcher paper. Allow, if possible, for trial supplies to create a "model": a lower quality version of the item using the pattern and technique you chose. Prioritize what items will by necesity cost more, and note what techniques you'll have to learn in order to accomplish the tasks (i.e. embroidery, buttonhole-making, etc).

Having these ideas written out allows you to not forget the options, cross off what is inaccessible, or mix and match to develop a better plan. After researching the means of execution and supplies that are used, it's time to research accessibility and alternatives - cost, availability, substitutes. If costs get high, consider upcycling and finding hacks, or maybe even just spending more time on a project instead of spending money on speeding it up. It really just depends on what you have, what you want to persevere in, and what gives you what you want. Examples include: opting for hand-stitching over investing in a machine, making  your own binding tape, creating your own knits, doing embellished seams instead of leaving them raw or investing in a surger. Ability, too, can limit the products used: if hand-stitching is not feasible or desireable using shank buttons may be off the table, unless you can find and use wire or staples to hold them; using other embellishments that are not sewing maching-friendly is also a problem.

Practice new techniques. Take a good bit to work through a new technique to achieve proficiency before using it on your final product. This is another place where using an inexpensive trial piece is priceless: it lets you see how the design works, but also lets you work out kinks in actually using techniques.

Take notes during your trials, what did and didn't work if any changes were made to an existing pattern, or if any changes had to be made to a bought or created pattern. If fabric type (knit vs woven, satin vs cotton) plays a part in the issues (like satin is notorious for puckering, shifting, and fraying), consider seeking an alternative that provides similar qualities. Consult online for work-arounds for the more persnickity issues with fabric or technique that may keep you from having to start over or purchase more supplies.